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Why
do some of my radiators heat
up more quickly than others? |
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It is likely that the system
needs to be balanced. Balancing
involves setting the lockshield
valve on each radiator to ¼
turn from fully closed then
running the system from cold,
noting the rate at which each
radiator is heating up. The
lockshield valve on any radiator,
that is slow to heat up, should
be opened slightly to encourage
water flow to that radiator.
Adjustments should be made until
all radiators heat up at the
same rate.
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How
often should i service my boiler? |
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You should have your boiler
serviced annually, as this will
keep your boiler running efficiently
and preserves its lifetime.
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What
do i do if i spring a leak on
hot or cold water pipe work? |
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If hot or cold water starts
flooding out of any pipework,
then turn off your stopcock
immediately (clockwise).
The stopcock won't instantly
stop the leak is fed by a cold-water
tank in the loft or from a hot
water cylinder in your airing
cupboard. However, look out
for other stopcocks or valves
near the bottom of the tank
or the top of the cylinder and
try to turn them off. (Remember
which ones you turn off so you
can turn them on again later).
As well as standard stopcocks,
other common valves are the
gate valve, ballafix and lever
valve. Ballafixes are turned
off using a screwdriver to rotate
the screw on the front 90º
so that the screw is across
the pipe. Lever valves are turned
off by twisting the lever 90º
so that the lever is across
to the pipe.
Toilets and basins often have
their own valve nearby so you
won't have to turn off the water
to the whole building.
If the ceiling starts to bulge
then put a hole in it with a
broom handle to prevent the
weight of the water bringing
it down on your head, then collect
the water in a bucket.
If you need to empty your tank
in a hurry, then turn off the
mains water at the stopcock
and run your bath taps - they
normally have the thickest pipes.
If you can't find the main stop
cock, then go into the loft
and wedge the ball cock arm
up using a stick or a piece
of string – this will
stop any more water entering
the tank.
Don't ever try to drain the
tank via the cold tap in the
kitchen sink as this is normally
connected straight onto the
mains so not fed by the tank
in the loft.
Find your stopcock and label
it in case of emergencies. Stopcocks
seize up if left untouched for
too long, so turn it off and
on again every six months. If
it doesn't turn off (clockwise),
a pair of pliers will give you
more leverage, but don't force
it too hard as stopcocks can
shear off and cause a real flood.
Next time you have a plumber
in the house, ask which other
valves will isolate hot or cold
water, and label them too.
If you can't find a stopcock
inside the house, then there
should be one outside the house,
often under a little trapdoor
on the pavement. However, these
are often very deep, stiff to
turn, or buried under earth.
You can phone your local water
authority if it won't turn,
as it is their responsibility,
but it is better to do this
before an emergency arises!
If you have a new kitchen or
bathroom fitted, then ensure
your plumber fits isolation
valves to all appliances, and
that the installer leaves easy
access to replaceable parts
so you can get to them in an
emergency without having to
break through marble tiles or
solid
.
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How
do I get the most from my combination
boiler? |
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In order
to get the best from your combination
boiler, it is important to understand
the basic principles involved.
A combination boiler works on
an “instantaneous”
basis. Water drawn from the
rising main to the tap is heated
as it passes through the boiler’s
domestic hot water calorifier.
The temperature of water obtained
is dependent on three factors:
- a)Boiler
output
The performance of a boiler
is directly related to it’s
output (usually given in kW
or Btu/hr)
b)Water flow rate
The speed at which water passes
through the heat exchanger
will determine how much heat
is absorbed. A good analogy
is a finger passing through
a candle flame – whether
the finger gets burnt or not
depends on how quickly it
is passed through the flame.
Boiler manufacturers will
often quote a hot water flow
rate for the appliance in
l/min or gal/min. However,
it is important when assessing
the performance of a combi
to remember that this flow
rate is based on a specific
temperature rise – usually
30°C or 35°C. If a
greater temperature rise is
required, the flow rate must
be reduced. Conversely, a
greater flow rate can be obtained
if the temperature rise required
is less.
e.g. A Combi with an output
of 23kW gives a flow rate
of 9.4 l/min for a temp rise
of 35°C but,
A flow rate of 8 l/min gives
a temp rise of 41°C
A flow rate of 10 l/min gives
a temp rise of 33°C
A flow rate of 15 l/min gives
a temp rise of 22°C
c)Incoming
mains water temperature
We have already seen that
the temperature rise depends
on the flow rate, but the
actual temperature obtained
will depend on the initial
mains water temperature. Because
this varies, the apparent
performance of the combi will
change according to the season
e.g. with the 23kW boiler,
at standard water flow rate;
Summer- typical mains temp
15°C, hot water temp 50°C
Winter – typical mains
temp 4°C, hot water temp
39°C
Note
The
hot water produced by a combi
is only available at one draw
off point at any one time.
Use of two points simultaneously
will result in poor performance
at both.
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Why
do some of my radiators heat up more
quickly than others? |
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It is likely that the system
needs to be balanced. Balancing
involves setting the lockshield
valve on each radiator to ¼
turn from fully closed then
running the system from cold,
noting the rate at which each
radiator is heating up. The
lockshield valve on any radiator,
that is slow to heat up, should
be opened slightly to encourage
water flow to that radiator.
Adjustments should be made until
all radiators heat up at the
same rate.
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Do
you recommend treatment of the
central heating water? |
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We do recommend the use of suitable
water treatment in the form
of an inhibitor to the heating
water system in accordance with
the water treatment manufacturers
instructions.
The concentration level of the
water inhibitor should be checked
every 12 months or sooner if
system content is lost.
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How
does Part L of the building
regulations affect my boiler
installation? |
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Part L of the building regulations
sets out standards to help in
the conservation of fuel and
power and as such directs the
type of appliance installed,
heating system controls, zone
controls and boiler interlocks
in addition to the construction
of properties.
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How
do you choose the right sanitary
ware for my new bathroom? |
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»
Size and
Shape of Bath
On the whole, the longer the
bath, the more comfortable it
will be. But remember that bigger
baths use more water, which
will cost more in the long run,
both financially and ecologically.
Be careful that the bath you
buy is not so bulky it won't
get through the bathroom door.
Bare in mind that shaped baths
are usually more expensive than
standard rectangular baths.
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Material
Used
Baths are made in three materials.
Plastic baths are cheap, light,
warm to the touch and are available
in various shapes and sizes.
Whilst they are very popular
for domestic bathrooms, they
are not very robust, and can
become discoloured and cracked.
Avoid plastic baths less than
¼" or 6mm thick,
which may sag.
Enamelled, pressed steel baths
are generally good quality and
are less affected by wear and
tear. They can be repaired should
the surface become damaged.
Cast iron baths are solid and
heavy so first ensure your bathroom
floor is strong enough to support
the weight, and that you will
be able to manoeuvre it into
the bathroom.
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Type of
Bath
Rolltop baths are only really
suitable for large bathrooms
and will swamp a small space.
They are expensive and can also
be hard to get hold of, since
few are still made in the U.K.
However, some manufacturers
now make roll-top baths in modern
materials. Beware: photographs
and showrooms don't always include
the pipework which is much more
visible than with a standard
boxed in bath and may be an
eyesore.
Spa and whirlpool baths are
also now popular although they
can be expensive. Make sure
the price you are quoted includes
all the extras - bath, whirlpool
system and pump, underwater
lights, taps, waste (plug hole
fitting), handle. And don't
forget the plumber's charges
will be heftier than for a normal
bath, as they can be fiddly
and time-consuming to fit.
If you are attached to your
current bath, you can have it
transformed into a spa or whirlpool
bath by buying a converter kit.
However, this can be just as
expensive as buying a brand
new spa bath. Also, some installers
will remove your bath in order
to install it, which may well
damage your tiling. Others will
leave your bath in place but
may not be able to reach one
side, which will limit the spa
or whirlpool effect.
Make sure your bath has the
correct number of tap holes
drilled in it (and in the right
places) before it leaves the
shop. Whilst plastic bath tap
holes can be easily drilled
by your plumber, steel ones
are best done by the manufacturer
so you won't have to pay for
any damage.
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Basins
Basins come with a pedestal,
as part of a vanity unit or
hang on the wall. Vanity unit
basins are best for hiding pipework
whilst still allowing access
to plumbing for maintenance.
Wall-hung basins take up less
space and allow you to adjust
the height to suit your needs.
However, you will be able to
see all the plumbing underneath
(which showrooms often leave
out). Check your walls are strong
enough to support a wall-mounted
basin and get your supplier
to give you the appropriate
fixings.
If you want something a bit
different from standard ceramic,
then look out for designer basins
in alternative materials, such
as glass, copper, stainless
steel and stone. But if you
are forgetful or have small
children and you don't want
your bathroom flooded, don't
choose a designer basin without
an overflow.
Before you leave the shop, make
sure the number of holes in
the basin matches the taps you
are buying.
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WC's
Most WCs now come as a closely
coupled suite with the cistern
attached to the back of the
pan. These flush more quietly
than WCs with high-level cisterns.
These come with a European style
pushbutton flush. You can save
water by buying a WC with a
dual flush button, which lets
you choose between a short or
long flush.
If you have plenty of space,
then a concealed cistern can
be built into the wall. One
advantage of this is that you
can buy a cheaper plastic cistern,
since it won't be seen. If you
opt for a concealed cistern,
make sure the builder allows
for future maintenance by creating
a removable panel on top.
You can hide even more plumbing
by buying a wall-hung "corbel"
type pan. This is fixed onto
a hidden frame in the wall,
rather than sitting on the bathroom
floor. These were originally
for public toilets as they are
more hygienic, but are now popular
in domestic bathrooms too.
Remember that if you buy a wall-hung
WC or one with a concealed cistern,
you are likely to need to employ
a carpenter as well as a plumber.
When choosing where to put a
new WC, allow 21" (530mm)
in front and 30" (760mm)
across for comfort. It is often
difficult to reposition your
WC as it is dependent on where
the drains are.
If you want one far away from
the drains, you can buy a macerator
which is a pump and shredder
- it will even pump waste away
vertically if you want a WC
in a basement. The shredder
fits neatly behind the WC bowl.
First check with your local
water supplier that the system
you choose is approved by them.
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Taps
Taps can be as expensive as
the bath or basin you are buying
them for and it is definitely
true that you pay for what you
get. Chromium-plated brass taps
are the best quality - plastic
ones will not last as long.
Some modern taps only need ¼
turn to go from off to full
on which is much easier for
the elderly and the young. These
taps require far less maintenance
as they have hard-wearing ceramic
discs instead of washers. However,
if you do have to replace a
disc, it is far more expensive.
Whilst the aesthetics of your
taps may seem important, make
sure you buy the best taps for
your plumbing system. Non-British
taps are mostly designed for
mains pressure and may not work
properly if your water comes
via a tank in your loft. You
can still install them but you
will have to accept that they
may trickle rather than gush.
Otherwise you can pay to fit
a pump or to change your system
to work straight off the mains.
If something goes wrong with
your tap, often the plumber's
hardest task is working out
what the tap is and who made
it. You can save time and money
if you keep all documentation
in a safe place.
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How
do I check the mains water pressure? |
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For all cold-mains fed appliances
it is important to ensure at
the time of installation that
your water main is large enough
to deliver adequate water to
the appliance whilst other cold
outlets are in use, for example
flushing toilets, washing machine
filling or cold taps being run.
Should the water main be insufficient
you may find that cold water
is ‘pinched’ from
the boiler when more than one
outlet is used. You could reduce
the chance of this happening
by giving the boiler priority
over all the other outlets,
by piping it up as the first
draw off from your mains.
The performance of any mains
fed hot water system will depend
on the mains water supply offering
an adequate dynamic pressure
and flow rate, as the flow rate
must be sufficient to supply
hot and cold water simultaneously.
Whilst there maybe sufficient
mains pressure the flow rate
is dependant on the size, type
and condition of the incoming
main. It is important not to
confuse pressure with flow and
the dynamic pressure will be
less than the static pressure.
A water pressure reducing valve
may also be required to protect
the appliance from excessive
incoming mains pressure. Maximum
incoming water pressure ids
normally 10 bar.
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